Your facial hair can make or break your look. Nothing emits got-it-together-ness quite  like a neatly trimmed beard or an expertly sculpted moustache. That said, there’s no one-style-suits-all. At least according to the pros. Let your beard grow wild and free if you’re averse to faff, but if you’re the sort of bearded gent that revels in dedicated grooming time, start by considering your face shape. The experts say that the best beards take into account the proportion of features – rectangular face and a wispy beard? It could be making you look drawn. Oval face shape and a stiletto beard? You’re hiding your enviable symmetry under an immaculately trimmed bushel.

 There’s a lot to unpack, gang, but we’ve done the majority of the leg work for you. Buckle up. Here’s your comprehensive guide to beard shapes. We cover everything from the rugged look (how to wear it without looking bedraggled)  to the neat-as-a-pin finish. Trimmers at the ready…

Step 1: Consider your face shape 

‘Choosing the right beard is no different from choosing the right haircut — it’s all about balance, proportion and face shape,’ advises top hairdresser Edward James. Here’s Olly Walker, Grooming Expert at Harry’s, with his essential guide:

Round

A round face shape typically has a similar width and height, a softer, smoother jawline and full, round cheeks. The overall shape will likely be circular with no prominent angles. Celebrities with round face shapes include Leonardo Di Caprio and Seth Rogan. 

The best beard for a round face shape

Keep the sides of your beard shorter and leave it a bit longer around your jawline. This will give your face a more angular look, making your jawline appear squarer instead of rounded. You can also go for a longer beard, which helps elongate the face and make it look less circular.

The worst beard for a round face shape

Anything too unkempt and full that adds extra width to the face. Where a round face shape is concerned, it’s about adding vertical length as opposed to width.

Square

Congratulations. You’ve won the face shape lottery where beards are concerned. If your face shape is square you’ll have a sharp, strong jawline and broad cheekbones. Your face will be defined, sharp and angular. Celebrities with square face shapes include Michael B. Jordan and Taron Egerton. 

The best beard for a square face shape

Whether you go for a clean shave or something more sculpted like a chin strap or soul patch, you’re in great shape. A full beard, stiletto beard, scruffy beard, or even simply a peppering stubble also work really well with this face shape. The world is your oyster.

The worst beard shape for a square face shape

Avoid anything boxy. While a scruffy style works well, you’ll still want to ensure it’s shorter and slightly more tapered around the jawline. 

Rectangle

A rectangular face shape has a longer chin than a fully square face, but is similar in all other respects. Celebrities with a rectangular face shape include James Norton and Henry Cavill

The best beard for a rectangular face shape

The goal is to add  fullness and create a more chiseled look. Beard styles that add width, like the hipster beard, work well, as do styles that help define the jawline, like the chinstrap beard. Both are great choices to balance out longer face shapes and give you a sharp, structured look.

The worst beard shape for a rectangular shape

Anything long or wispy – extra length around the chin will only make your face appear disproportionately long.  

Oval

If your face is slightly longer than it is wide, with a rounded jawline and balanced proportions then you’ll likely have an oval face shape. Celebrities with an oval face shape include George Clooney, Idris Elba and Justin Bieber.

The best beard for an oval face shape

 Lucky you! You’ve got the face shape that works with just about any style. Happy days. Go wild.

The worst beard shape for an oval face shape

If anything, avoid pointed beards, like the stiletto, as they can throw off your natural balance.

If you’re still unsure of your face shape, don’t be afraid to experiment with different styles in a bid to find out what works for you. ‘And work with your hair texture,’ adds James. ‘Apply oils with natural ingredients like jojoba oil, argan, and sweet almond – they’re lightweight and nourishing and help to create a look that feels intentional.’ And at the end of the day, oval face, square or round, the best beard of all is the one that makes you feel great. Over and out.